Whilst a lot of focus is always on London, New York, Paris and Milan during the fashion week seasons of September and February, there is so much more to see in other cities too. Once you observe long enough, you can start to make up a city's aesthetic in your head- and I feel like a refreshed perspective is always needed, especially regarding style. This is why I’ve kept my eye on Berlin lately. Last month, Berlin Fashion Week exploded with up-and-coming designers, arguably outshining that of the other more established fashion capitals. I've chosen the top 3 I can't wait to see again, check them out below.
Every collection of Bobby Kolade’s begins with a place, somewhere special. Be it a bedroom, a courtyard or as far as West Africa; Kolade takes elements of clothing from whichever place provides him with inspiration and invigorates it with colour and spontaneity to create truly unique collections.
The Spring/Summer 2016 collection takes us to the Yoruba people in Benin and Nigeria, this season for Kolade is about performance, dance and masquerade; with complex layering, colour-blocking and hybrids of fabrics and styles weaved together, he captures the energetic display of theatre whilst still maintaining that Berlin-cool image.
The master graduate of Weissensse School of Art in Berlin, William Fan entitles his second ever collection “Jade Gardens”, named after his parents first Chinese restaurant and draws further inspiration from his Asian background for his Spring/Summer 2016 collection.
I’m personally a bit of a minimalist and whilst I admire simplicity, I always try to look for something to up the ante on a particular garment, which is Fan’s exact approach to his clothes. Other than adding a mandarin collar to shirts, Fan goes a step further and reconstructs the whole thing, adding matching sash belts which are greatly reminiscent of the classic Japanese obi.
The collection had an earthy colour scheme from navy to greys to some khaki and even a few pops of yellow and purple. Another thing I loved about this collection was the simple accessories, large jade pendants (an obvious nod to Fan’s heritage) and smaller pieces of jade rings for the posh ponytail on his models, reminiscent of the Dior SS15 show.
What happens when Mozambique and Berlin cross paths? Alexandra Tamele, that’s what. The 22 year old unveiled a casual, urban streetwear collection that dabbles in African prints and patterns without making it the total focus of the collection.
Light earth tones are mixed with white and peachy oranges, combined with loose fitting, flowing shirts and relaxed trousers ranging from chinos to joggers, really mixing sweet with street.
Dressing all models in white sneakers and slapping on her tiger head logo on bright orange vests and dresses, Tamele comments on how she “wanted to reinterpret the 80s and 90s old hip-hop style and scene in Miami”
Alexandra’s SS16 collection is just what it needed to be: Fresh, young and urban, perfectly corresponding to the younger generation she’s designing for.
Words by Taylor-Dior Rumble (@XO_TDR)